April 2008
A week in Nepal: Kathmandu to Pokhara to Chitwan
April 9, 2008
We
landed in Kathmandu ... and immediately figured out hiring a car and
driver would be best to see the countryside. We had a fabulous first
night in Kathmandu - nice hotel in a quiet residential section of
town and not the busy tourist section....But what happened to the Holy
Cows? Not a one here in Kathmandu ! Our hotel directed us to a great
dinner place - all traditional Newari food and rice wine -
delicious....plus entertainment! Traditional dance and music - but not
only for foreigners and happy mountain trekkers... plenty of local folks
too.
So
after one night in Kathmandu we were off to the mountains.
Unfortunately - the skies are typically very hazy cloudy here with smoke
and pollution. And, though we traveled through the mountains (that is
all there is here!! fabulous mountains and wild mountain roads) we could
not see the Himalayas .... But we had some great luck!! The night of
our arrival came a huge electrical storm. Big lightening, huge booming
thunder (reverberating in the mountains) and a good decent rain! We had
arranged for a 5am pick up so we could be driven to a mountain vista
for the sunrise. We arrived and then climbed another 1000 feet or so to
a fabulous look out!!! IT WAS AMAZING!!! Crystal clear skies and the
most fabulous view of the
Annapurna range! Right there! And sunrise! We watched as each peak
was lit up with sun light!!! Heaven!!
Later
that day we hired a little dug out boat to cross a beautiful lake in the shadow of the Annapurna Range and
climbed up to another vista point. Spectacular!
Next
up was Chitwan National Park south of Kathmandu ... a quiet little
lodge in a small village. Jeep safari, boat and walking safari,
and even elephant safaris!!! Lot 's of amazing birds and the one horned
Indian/Nepali rhino!!! We actually came right up to the rhino while on
elephant back! Two nights here - lot's of creatures, great food, quiet
lodging!
Now
we are in Kathmandu again. The national election is on April 10.
Given the security our flight to Bhutan though scheduled for 4/10 has
been rescheduled for 4/11. There is quite a lot of
excitement here about the election... history making! Jimmy Carter is
here along with many other international observers. The Nepali are
quite serious about the significance of the election and many say there
will be a great turn out tomorrow. This democratic election will bring
in leaders to rewrite the constitution... removing the power of the king
and shifting the country to a republic. We are
safe here in our neighborhood and will have a great view of the
community as the local residents cast their votes. All TVs will be
turned to the news as everyone is watching events closely.
I
coaxed Mary-Anna out early for a morning walk. That is the best time
to see the town come alive. Since this was my second early walk I could
show her what I learned from my first day almost a week ago... and many
of the neighbors remembered me and greeted with Namaste. First thing in the am -
we see the women bringing little offerings of flowers, rice, and fruit
on special plates or leaves... They then stop by a small shrine to light
incense and say a prayer, then leave their offering in front of their
home or business. So the sidewalks are dotted with these beautiful
little offerings. Meanwhile the early am sweet shops are hopping...
frying up delicious sweets to go along with Nepali tea (masala chai) for
the morning crowds. In the old neighborhood courtyards the little
street markets begin laying
out amazing mounds of fruits, vegetables, spices, rock salt, yoghurt
(buffalo curd), flowers. The courtyards circle small shrines and
temples where worshipers come to light incense & butter
candles, present flowers and receive holy water, and then to walk
clockwise around the temple ringing the temple bells. The folks are
very tolerant of us... the only "foreigners" around (since we are not in
a tourist section)... and we have learned a few Nepali words to make
them smile or laugh.
The best part of visiting is just "getting lost" and wandering the neighborhoods seeing life in Kathmandu!
April 12, 2008
Our
flight to Bhutan was delayed by a day due to the elections. Extra
security was in place everywhere and though the international airport
was supposedly not closed, the Bhutan airline opted to cancel it's
flights. No cars or motorcycles were allowed on the streets from
midnight the day of the election to sometime in the early am the next
day. Only "official" vehicles were allowed (and very few of those).
What an amazing experience that was! No traffic on the streets of wild
and crazy Kathmandu - it was heaven!
Since our hotel was in a residential area the staff assured us that we
would be just fine walking outside to see the election in process.
I
headed out for my usual 6am walk in the neighborhood and quickly found
the first polling place. The neighbors were beginning to gather outside
the local school (serving as a poll) as the polls were being staffed up
and the international election observers were arriving. The energy was
really exciting - everyone was so happy and proud that they would be
able to vote in the first democratic election that would lead to the
creation of a new constitution and the peaceful abdication of a king.
It did not take long for an older gentleman to approach me to ask if I
was an observer... he offered me a cup of masala chai in his
neighborhood tea shop and we sat and traded stories about politics and
life in our respective countries. Later that morning - after returning
to the hotel to get Mary-Anna -
we repeated my am path and found this same man and his wife coming out
of the polls to mill around with their neighbors enjoying the historic
event (their neighborhood has electronic voting too!). MA and I just
walked and walked through the neighborhoods - seeing the same reactions
every few blocks at each polling station. All this and no traffic! We
walked all the way into the old section of town to see Durbar square
where the temples from the 1500's - 1600's are located (and more
polling booths interspersed among the temples!). By the end of the day
there was celebration as the local neighborhood learned that their
preferred candidates won their precinct. The rest of the election
results were not expected right away since many regions are still quite
remote. I have not seen how the results are - but can only hope peace
will remain (there had been some pre-election problems and
killings).
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| Pokhara and the Annapurna Range |
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| Chitwan |
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