I often dread
writing - though I force myself to write something each month - it takes some
discipline to keep up these narratives that I write to stay connected to friends & to remind me of the places & people I have come to know. But I had a long cold day
in Leh, settled in my hard hard bed but with a spectacular view of the
Himalayas so I decided to get this started and then it just seemed to write
itself. The challenge in writing about India is to be honest about the
challenges of being a traveler here while still trying to convey what an
incredible country this is.
By the time I leave
India I will have been traveling 10 months - even when I write these posts I
find that the days & weeks spent in various countries & places is
becoming a blur. I look back at the simple snapshots I have taken to help me
remember some amazing adventures. If all goes well I will be able to get a visa
from the Russian Embassy in Delhi & will take off for a week to Moscow on
May 13 & then travel to St. Petersburg by train for another week. Yes - I
still want to keep this crazy lifestyle going longer.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now into my second
month of travel in India, over 1,300 miles so far, I was feeling fairly comfortable with the ins and outs
of travel in northern India - even taking in stride, as an example, the
overpacked, overnight 108 miles (174 km) local bus from Dharamsala to Kullu
that would take almost 8 hours (gives a good example of how slow the mountain road trips are). I thought I would miss seeing the beautiful
mountain scenery by traveling through the night - but actually bus trips mean
just a constant barrage of towns along narrow roads with little scenery to see. At least travel by night gives one a chance
of getting somewhere without the constant surge of traffic & pedestrians
that happens amid blaring horns during the crazy pre-midnight hours. Between 8
pm & midnight, depending on the size of the town, the traffic eases up as
the shops & street vendors have packed up & everyone is heading home.
India surpasses all
the Asian & African countries I have visited so far in the intensity of
homes & businesses & vehicles & people & cows & dogs
competing for limited space along existing, incredibly narrow & poorly
maintained roads. Without sidewalks, pedestrians & animals have to weave
among the cars & rickshaws & motorbikes & food stalls with their
vats of boiling oil for samosas & pots of boiling milk tea. There is little
to no difference between the roads within towns & those that pass between
towns - it's a maze of pot holes & irregular surfaces with piles of bricks,
dirt & rock for construction heaped just about everywhere. The rule of the
road is the game of chicken as
drivers dare each other to see who will pull over or back up at the last minute
to let the other pass. To say the Indians drive aggressively is an
understatement. It's a given that there will be shouting on both sides for
minor accidents that are basically just shrugged off as who wants to get
insurance companies & police involved. Pedestrians understand they have
zero priority but they play the game of chicken too & ignore the vehicles
which causes drivers to lean fiercely on their horns. And so it goes. I seldom
enjoy going for walks here because it is such a struggle dealing with the
traffic, the constant blaring horns, & the uneven roadways with little
place for escape.
Like most of the
developing countries I have visited in Asia, one really has to wander far off
the main transportation lines by private car or take an overland trek to a
remote village to find something even close to what we might call charming; as
in the sense of an old colonial village in Mexico, an indigenous village in
Lesotho, or a medieval village in Spain. In all but the most rural & rustic
hamlets, there seems to be little preservation of the look & feel of
traditional neighborhoods. Newer buildings are crowded in wherever they can be
fit. Everything takes on a shabby look as it seems there is little regard for
maintaining - anything. Advertisements are painted onto buildings or posted on
makeshift signs. Dirty windows, unfinished buildings, shabby restaurants &
hotels, small shops selling the same chips & sodas line the streets; it's
all a repetitive blur. Trash - yes, the bane of developing countries, is
everywhere.
So how can you
understand or appreciate India if you can't go past what you see on the
streets? It is a challenge to everything we know & love about our (mostly)
clean, well-organized, predictable western world. India is a challenge more
than any other country, because there just so many people & the chaos is
accepted. The volume of life here is so intense & so overwhelming. And so I
am constantly intrigued by what I see when I am out. The craziness that I feel
is just what is "normal". If the people around me are stressed or
annoyed by the blaring horns, the traffic, the chaotic-seeming manner of
"non-queueing", the yelping dogs, the on again off again electricity
- they sure don't seem to show it.
I don't want to
assume that I understand the culture but… the chaos of the outside world does
not seem to be reflected in the individuals that I have met or observed.
Whether Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, or Buddhist there is certain calmness, a
peacefulness and genuine kindness that I can easily feel when I talk with
individuals & small groups. People here struggle with the economy &
lack of resources but they don't seem to struggle with life. It seems too
simple to say but maybe there is a safety net that the extended family &
their religion offers & that helps maintain some equilibrium &
perspective. There is so much apparent energy - people seem to work hard &
are productive - the shops & markets are always so full of "made in
India" goods - abundant fruits, vegetables, eggs, & milk products (the
best fresh yogurt!), finely crafted cotton & woolen garments, beautiful
hand crafts - rugs, weavings, embroidery, wood & metal work, to name a few.
And of course super creative & prolific literary, music & film artists.
But so many people also seem to take time for their spiritual life as well -
even if just to stop by a temple for a quick prayer or touch their hand to the
threshold & then their forehead in a sign of respect.
The Indians love of
country & heritage is also very apparent. Outside of major cities like
Delhi, I rarely come across western (American) fast food joints (thank god).
Each state has a clear identity that is apparent through unique, brilliantly
colorful traditional dress, language, & delicious food. Indians enjoy being
tourists & traveling to regions often at great distance from their own
state; they bring their kids & extended family & often take up several
rooms in the hotels. During most of my trip I have spent more time with locals
in hotels & have found they treat the hotel like their homes. They leave
their doors open so family members can move in & out to visit & share
meals. Life happens in the hallways too - it's not uncommon to find someone
walking around the hallway brushing their teeth in their jammies. And, they are
always kind & friendly to me - much more so than even foreign travelers who
are often in their own bubble of isolation. I can't even count the times I have
been given a business card by an Indian father traveling with his family with a
heartfelt invitation to come for a visit should I travel someone's home state.
It is very easy to
meet local Indians here & I have visited with numerous families in their
homes. When someone invites me to come to their home - they are being genuine
& sincere - there is no hidden agenda. The visit will include tea &
I'll bring cookies & sometimes I can pull out a balloon from my bag for the
little kids. With an array of parents, in-laws, adult & young children,
cousins & neighbors there is always someone who can speak even a little
English or be fairly fluent. Even if we can't speak more than a few simple
sentences, friendship & hospitality are clearly communicated.
Eleven weeks in
India, covering an additional 4,000 miles, has passed at a very slow pace. I have had the chance to see &
experience so many different regions, some like Kashmir & Ladakh that I
knew I wanted to visit; others like Varanasi & Dharamsala that I never
imagined I would; & still others like Khajuraho, Orchaa, the Kullu Valley,
& Amritsar that I had never heard of.
Looking beyond the craziness & disorder can be a challenge but once
I do the magic of India is right there to enjoy. The heritage of India, led by
the Moghuls, shahs, & religious leaders, found incredible ways to blend
man-made elements with the natural beauty of India. Palaces, forts, temples,
stupas, & monasteries were built in harmony with spectacular settings. The
princes of Varanasi built noble palaces, gates, & walkways along the sacred
Ganges River to pay homage to the gods, yet allow access to the river for all
worshippers. Khajuraho is home to the intricately carved Jain temples &
tombs silhouetted among beautiful gardens.
Leh's Buddhist monasteries are built on rocky crags rising over the
barren plains with stunning views of the Himalayas; but the Hemis monastery,
the largest in Ladakh, was built in hidden niche of the Himalayas at 12,000
feet.
Northern India is
rich in waterways & fertile soil. Being here in the spring I've been able
to watch the slow transformation of the farmland as farmers prepare & plant
the fields & tend the orchards. In the mountain region of Kashmir I enjoyed
the full bloom of the tulip gardens & watching the fruit & nut trees
bud & then blossom. Over 3 short days camping in Naranag, Kashmir I was
able to watch the signs of spring taking back the land from ice & snow. Our
camp sat along a fast moving river - runoff from the melting Himalayan snow -
that had begun to chip huge chunks of ice from the frozen remains of the
winter's avalanche that not so long ago had stopped the river's flow &
backed up the river high onto the rocky banks. I am sorry though that I'll miss
the blooming of Kashmir's saffron fields in October - when vast stretches of
land turn purple & fragrant. I'll also miss the hatching of the baby hawks
whose nest I watched their parents build in a tree just outside my window in
Srinagar.
Though I travelled
generally in the north & covered a lot of ground - I have always felt safe.
It's as if the Indian people placed me in a protected bubble. I always have had the sense that people have
kept an eye out for me, not because they feared I could be hurt or threatened
but rather because they saw I was alone & felt I needed the comfort of
their family.
Though I have many
stories to tell about my experiences over the past 4-5 weeks, here are just
some highlights.
Kullu & Manali, Himachal Pradesh
Two smallish towns
in the Kullu Valley at the base of the Himalayas. Manali even has a small ski
resort & offers tandem paragliding. I spent over a week in Manali visiting
the nearby hamlets & taking walks up to a very old wooden Hindu temple above
the town. In Old Manali I met a friendly fellow who invited me for tea - we sat
on the rooftop terrace of his hotel with the best view of the valley possible.
He is a musician & had many stories to tell about performing locally &
in Europe. He even hosted an even with Anoushka Shankar (daughter of the famous
sitar artist Ravi Shankar) in Manali. Well - I like to believe most of what he
said was true!
Amritsar, Punjab
An important center
of Sikh culture & home of the Golden Temple. I have read that the Golden
Temple receives an average of 100,000 people a day, more visitors per year than
the Taj Mahal. Fortunately I arrived in the early evening to be there for the
sunset so it was not too crowded. I only had to wait in line about 30-40
minutes to get into the very small temple where the sacred books are held. Sikh
priests play traditional instruments & sing the verses night & day
(broadcast all day on national TV). The pilgrims who come to the temple from
great distances are clearly in awe & spend the day in prayer in the open
areas that surround the temple. This temple is reported to have the largest
kitchen in the world; serving a complimentary meal to all visitors who come to
the dining area. I took a day tour of the city that brought me to the
India-Pakistan border for the grand ceremony where the border guards retire the
national flags for the day. A real spectacle & show of national pride on
both sides of the border. High stepping, decked out soldiers - prance &
preen at each other in a showy display of might as they open & close the
ceremonial gates to retire the flags. The grounds are set up with a stadium
that seats several thousand people (more on the India side) to watch the
nightly event.
Kashmir, Jammu-Kashmir
This large sprawling
city sits along the banks of several rivers & a couple of beautiful lakes
& is rimmed by the Himalayas - a very scenic location. It's population is
over a million & overwhelmingly Muslim. The Kashmiri have a very different
look about them - they say it is more of a Persian rather than a Hindu
appearance. The city does not have modern buildings, rather, most building are
no more than 5-6 stories & quite worn down. It is the summer capital of the
state of Jammu-Kashmir & the site of numerous Mohgul palaces & gardens.
My home was the cozy & comfy Kashmir Inn for almost 3 weeks. The owners,
brothers Fayez, Riyaz, & Niyaz, & staff, Khursheed, Riyaz, & Adil,
became my buddies who looked out for me.
Gulmarg & Pahalgam
Day trips outside Srinagar
included visits to the hill towns (mountain hamlets is a more descriptive
term) of Gulmarg & Pahalgam that pass through farms & orchards to
reach impressive mountain gorges & high peaks streaked with numerous
waterfalls & whitewater rivers. In Gulmarg it was entertaining to see
the Indian tourists from the south playing in the snow for the first time.
Many of the local tourists were decked out like snow bunnies after renting
full snow gear from the stations along the road who catered to mountain
novices from the tropics.
Naranag Mountain Trek
Riyaz (staff) is a guide
during the summer months & I was his first client for the trekking
season this year - he was my guide for a 3-night trip to Naranag in the
mountains. The first night I slept in his rustic home (tiny open hearth
for cooking, no heating, no running water except a faucet for the squat
toilet) in the "gypsy" village (his term) where his family
lives. The mountain areas have so many rivers with extremely fast moving
white water coming from the incredibly steep peaks above - I remember
thinking as we came into the area that there must be quite a few injuries
& deaths since the villagers rely on the rivers for fish, water, &
driftwood. As we came into his village we found out that just that day a
2-year child had fallen into a stream near his home & drowned. The
child's family lives right next to Riyaz's family & so from my guest
room window I was able to watch as the child, wrapped in a shroud, was
brought back to the house from the hospital (which is almost an hour
away). Over the next hour people from all over the village - some from
higher up on the slopes - came pouring into the family compound to pay
their respects & attend the funeral. The child was taken into the
home, bathed & wrapped again, while a grave was dug just outside. The
child was buried within an hour. Throughout the day, evening, & into
the night, the village imam, local leaders, family, & friends kept
vigil with the boy's parents. The whole village mourned. The next day we "trekked" only
a short distance along an easy path to our 2-night campsite; pack horses
carried all the provisions. Riyaz
was cook, guide, friend, & tent mate (it was a huge tent) who treated
me like a queen - making sure I was always warm & well fed. It rained
intermittently & so I kept to short walks on the trails along the
river with Riyaz's son & his friends for company.
Sufism in Srinagar
One of the
brothers, Niyaz, kept me entertained. He invited me to accompany him to
meet his friends & attend Sufi gatherings. There is an easy
hospitality in India that makes befriending strangers so natural. Sufi-ism
is strong in Kashmir, it is a variation within the Muslim faith
characterized by strong sense of self-knowledge & personal peace
gained through meditation & spiritual poetry & music. Unlike the
dervish of Turkey, the Kashmir Sufi don't seem to incorporate dance in
their prayer. I was invited to a couple of Sufi events where spiritual
songs are performed - and I was the only woman attending (only possible
because as a foreigner I don't break cultural taboos that separate Muslim
men & women). The first was a smallish event of about 30 men and the
principle performers were talented but considered non-professional. This
event was during the day & we stayed just a couple of hours. The
second event of about 40 men was hosted in honor of a local "baba"
(spiritual guide) who is highly respected by his group of followers, of
which Niyaz & his friends belong. We met first at the baba's very
simple, hermitic home with a small group of followers & then we all
went on to the home of the family hosting the event. This gathering was a
demonstration of devotion to & respect of the baba. A full wazwan
(traditional Kashmiri dinner) was served. The Muslims in Kashmir eat meat
unlike most of India's Hindi - and the Kashmiri Muslims love meat!! We sat
along the wall on the floor covered in carpets, I was given a seat of
honor next to the baba (I took it as it had extra cushions!!). Long
stretches of fabric were spread in front of us to serve as a table cloth.
First a helper comes along with a basin & pitcher to pour water over
each person's hands to wash and then the procession of food began. A large
plate of rice is placed on the cloth for groups of 4 to share; then at a
slow & comfortable pace servers come with large metal urn-like
containers filled with meat stews of various types; mostly mutton &
some chicken. The stew is placed in the center of the rice, which is
replenished generously as needed, so that we can all scoop up a bit with
our fingers (right hand only of course). One dish after another comes -
maybe 6 dishes in all. The helper comes back at the end of the meal with
the water for washing hands & to pick up the table cloth. Finally, we
have sweet milk tea & everyone settles back to relax a bit before the music
begins. For this event a group of professional performers was hired to
play for the baba. The music started at about 11 pm and did not end until
5:30 am. The music & singing was constant - no breaks between songs
& only 3 short breaks for tea the entire night. For these Sufi - it is
interesting to note that hashish plays an important role in these events.
The bowl of the shisha (the hookah water pipe) is filled with loose
tobacco & a bit of hash & passed around. An alternative, especially
for large groups, is tobacco/hash cigarettes. The hash is just an aid in
the spiritual experience. During one of the breaks I was invited to go
upstairs to the family's living quarters to meet the women. It was a party
of greetings & selfies until the younger women stole me away to meet
with them separately in their own room. The host came to collect me though
to return to the music. The whole event was beautiful! By 4 am I was
nodding off so someone brought me an extra pillow for my head & I
vaguely remember someone putting a blanket over me as I nodded off almost
immediately.
Ladakh, Jammu-Kashmir
Sometimes
you just have to go south to go north! Though I had hoped to drive or fly
directly east from Srinagar to Leh (less than 45 min by air) it was just not
possible. This year the winter snow was particularly heavy & the road
between the two cities was not yet open. And - for some reason, there were just
not any flights available so I had to fly south back to Delhi, spend the night,
then take a flight early the next morning north to Leh, Ladakh. I had come to
India to see Leh and had been traveling
slowly the last couple months so I could reach Leh when in spring - so I just
had to make it!
LehThe flight coming into
Leh, which sits at 11,500 feet, passes along the Himalayas & is
gorgeous. Rather than the forests & rivers of Kashmir, Ladakh is a
moonscape more reminiscent of Tibet - a high desert without much sign of
life - but beautiful in its own way. Ladakh is a predominately Buddhist
district with only 30% Muslim. There is a strong Tibetan refugee element
but still the majority of the population has an Asian appearance that is
so unlike the Hindu population. Like Tibet, stupas, monasteries, prayer
wheels, & prayer flags seem to be everywhere. The architecture is
Tibetan with typical traditional Buddhist painting & wood work inside
& outside monasteries, homes, & businesses. Unlike the typical
Indian city - Leh appears to managed by city planners! There is a pleasant
central market area that is closed to traffic. At one end is a lovely
mosque & the whole market area is situated under a scenic view of two
monasteries perched high above. Work is under way to improve the roads
& flow of traffic & there are a lot of cars here! Signs to keep
Leh clean & beautiful are everywhere as are garbage cans (very rare in
other cities)! The city streets & neighborhoods are really very clean.
Leh is small & cozy - no high rises but lots of guest houses &
hotels. Their success with city planning is likely due to the strong
economy derived from eco-tourism & trekking. The roads in/out of Leh
are completely closed off for 3-4 months each year. Only 2 roads, one from
Srinagar & one from Manali, service Leh. All other transportation is
by air until snow plows clear these 2 roads. I was here for a week in late
April during the shoulder season & I saw very few foreigners as the
trekking season would not start until the roads & trails open towards
the middle of May. I was the only guest at the Dorje Guesthouse & was well pampered; 3 meals a day,
frequent servings of tea, & lots of attention. The first few days were
lovely - clear blue sky & great starry nights. The weather changed as
mountain weather does but even when the clouds came I had great views from
my room with floor to ceiling windows on two walls. I had plenty of
opportunity to get out & see the sights - mostly monasteries - but I
never seem to tire of the artwork that is so important in Buddhist temples
& of course the views of the mountains that change each moment with
the available sunlight.
Nubra Valley
A highlight of the visit to Ladakh was a visit to the Nubra Valley just about 80 miles east of Leh. To get there means crossing the Khardung La pass which is one of highest motorable roads in the world. Though the signpost at the summit boasts the altitude is over 18,380 feet, most references report the altitude is just a mere
17,582 feet. My driver for the 2-day trip to Nubra was Stanzin, a sincere young man who, in spite of driving a little fast, actually drove much slower & more safely than many of the vehicles who passed us. He had a funny habit of talking out loud to himself and I only hoped his choice to play Buddhist chanting while we crossed the high winding roads was a good omen. The road is narrow & with the heavy snow traffic much limited to one-way traffic. The traffi is controlled well before the pass in each direction; vehicles must pass the checkpoint before 11am heading toward Nubra and returning vehicles can only begin the journey after 2pm - this minimizes the flow of 2-way traffic. The day was bright & sunny & the snow pristine as we drove eastward across the pass. Stanzin put chains on & took them off at the right points; unlike some drivers who risked the roads without chains. Thank goodness for the chains because even with them we hit a few icy patches & slide around a bit - I had great views of the very steep drop-offs over the low berms that created the only barrier along the road (ok - I admit it, I closed my eyes a lot!). With all the stops & starts, those 80 miles took us over 5 hours! Our planned stops along the way included the requisite photo opp at the summit & we stopped for lunch along the way at an outpost town for momos (Tibetan style veggie dumplings) & nice hot, sweet milk tea. There was still time after arriving in Nubra to go out to visit the dunes that cover a good portion of the valley floor & see the changing mountain light as the sun setting behind the immense mountains & gorges that have created the valley. The mountains show off very active & diverse geological changes - some layered ridges pushing up at dramatic angles, other steep mountains letting fine sand slide down from incredibly steep heights, & winding & flowing along - a shallow but clear & blue narrow river. To please us travelers, wooly Bactrian (2-humped) & long skirted yaks graze along the banks of the river. All very impressive & beautiful. The next morning we left in time for me to explore the 14th century Buddhist monastery that sits in an auspicious location partway up a mountain ridge with an impressive view of the valley. As usual, I
A highlight of the visit to Ladakh was a visit to the Nubra Valley just about 80 miles east of Leh. To get there means crossing the Khardung La pass which is one of highest motorable roads in the world. Though the signpost at the summit boasts the altitude is over 18,380 feet, most references report the altitude is just a mere
17,582 feet. My driver for the 2-day trip to Nubra was Stanzin, a sincere young man who, in spite of driving a little fast, actually drove much slower & more safely than many of the vehicles who passed us. He had a funny habit of talking out loud to himself and I only hoped his choice to play Buddhist chanting while we crossed the high winding roads was a good omen. The road is narrow & with the heavy snow traffic much limited to one-way traffic. The traffi is controlled well before the pass in each direction; vehicles must pass the checkpoint before 11am heading toward Nubra and returning vehicles can only begin the journey after 2pm - this minimizes the flow of 2-way traffic. The day was bright & sunny & the snow pristine as we drove eastward across the pass. Stanzin put chains on & took them off at the right points; unlike some drivers who risked the roads without chains. Thank goodness for the chains because even with them we hit a few icy patches & slide around a bit - I had great views of the very steep drop-offs over the low berms that created the only barrier along the road (ok - I admit it, I closed my eyes a lot!). With all the stops & starts, those 80 miles took us over 5 hours! Our planned stops along the way included the requisite photo opp at the summit & we stopped for lunch along the way at an outpost town for momos (Tibetan style veggie dumplings) & nice hot, sweet milk tea. There was still time after arriving in Nubra to go out to visit the dunes that cover a good portion of the valley floor & see the changing mountain light as the sun setting behind the immense mountains & gorges that have created the valley. The mountains show off very active & diverse geological changes - some layered ridges pushing up at dramatic angles, other steep mountains letting fine sand slide down from incredibly steep heights, & winding & flowing along - a shallow but clear & blue narrow river. To please us travelers, wooly Bactrian (2-humped) & long skirted yaks graze along the banks of the river. All very impressive & beautiful. The next morning we left in time for me to explore the 14th century Buddhist monastery that sits in an auspicious location partway up a mountain ridge with an impressive view of the valley. As usual, I
17,582 feet.
My driver for the 2-day trip to Nubra was Stanzin, a sincere young man who, in
spite of driving a little fast, actually drove much slower & more safely
than many of the vehicles who passed us. He had a funny habit of talking out
loud to himself and I only hoped his choice to play Buddhist chanting while we
crossed the high winding roads was a good omen. The road is narrow & with
the heavy snow traffic much limited to one-way traffic. The traffi is
controlled well before the pass in each direction; vehicles must pass the
checkpoint before 11am heading toward Nubra and returning vehicles can only
begin the journey after 2pm - this minimizes the flow of 2-way traffic. The day
was bright & sunny & the snow pristine as we drove eastward across the
pass. Stanzin put chains on & took them off at the right points; unlike
some drivers who risked the roads without chains. Thank goodness for the chains
because even with them we hit a few icy patches & slide around a bit - I
had great views of the very steep drop-offs over the low berms that created the
only barrier along the road (ok - I admit it, I closed my eyes a lot!). With
all the stops & starts, those 80 miles took us over 5 hours! Our planned
stops along the way included the requisite photo opp at the summit & we
stopped for lunch along the way at an outpost town for momos (Tibetan style
veggie dumplings) & nice hot, sweet milk tea. There was still time after
arriving in Nubra to go out to visit the dunes that cover a good portion of the
valley floor & see the changing mountain light as the sun setting behind
the immense mountains & gorges that have created the valley. The mountains
show off very active & diverse geological changes - some layered ridges
pushing up at dramatic angles, other steep mountains letting fine sand slide
down from incredibly steep heights, & winding & flowing along - a
shallow but clear & blue narrow river. To please us travelers, wooly
Bactrian (2-humped) & long skirted yaks graze along the banks of the river.
All very impressive & beautiful. The next morning we left in time for me to
explore the 14th century Buddhist monastery that sits in an auspicious location
partway up a mountain ridge with an impressive view of the valley. As usual, I followed my nose to the rustic
kitchen area to watch phe monks making momos & enjoying the tea they
offered me. We were at the checkpoint at exactly 2pm to begin the return trip
in plenty of time to beat the sunset. What a change a day in the mountains can
bring! As soon as we passed the checkpoint big gray clouds began to gather
& we found ourselves behind a long train of vehicles constantly having to
stop & wait while a caravan of 10-15 army trucks slowly plodded along the
road between frequent stops to dig out of deep trenches. I only hoped we would
be back on the paved road before dark.
It seemed iffy to me - I was not looking forward to spending the night
in the car - but maybe with a little help from the Buddhist chants we made
across the summit & Stanzin was able to take the chains off once we reached
the paved road & the trucks were moving freely again. We were back at my lovely little Dorje
Guesthouse by 8:30pm - more than 9 hours of travel!
Dehli
Leaving
Leh was a little iffy too! Though the vast majority of my days in the mountains
had plenty of clear sky & weather, my departure day started with rain &
wind & I sure hoped the storm would pass before my 10:30am flight to Delhi.
But - the mountains just seemed to comply & the weather began to clear
& after only a slight delay the plane took off & I made it safely to
New Delhi & the 100+ degree temps.
Fortunately a buddy I made in Srinagar (the one who introduced me to
Sufism) was coming into Delhi & we arranged to meet with a friend of his
who owns a lovely cottage about 30 miles outside of Delhi. We passed a couple
great days there enjoying the pool & a variety of interesting locals &
foreign travelers coming to enjoy the pool under starlight.
My
last few days in Delhi are simple & easy but I'm limiting time out in the
heat - thank goodness I have already spent plenty of time sightseeing here in
the past! I submitted an application for
a visa to Russia & will pick up my passport & visa on Friday so I can
fly to Moscow on Saturday May 13. I have a few days in a comfy hotel with AC
& wifi so I can try to do some planning for a trip to Colombia &
Ecuador in September-October.
My
visit to India has been wonderful - long & fulfilling. Taking the slow road
has given me so many opportunities to experience life in such a wide variety of
Indian cultures & to have met & befriended some very kind &
interesting people. I'm not sure when or if I'll be back to India & Asia -
there is so much more to explore - but for now I am satisfied with my travels
here and am looking forward to returning to the western world of Russia &
Europe & eventually on to the Americas.
