Letters from India - The Mountain Trail

India Photo Album

I often dread writing - though I force myself to write something each month - it takes some discipline to keep up these narratives that I write to stay connected to friends & to remind me of the places & people I have come to know. But I had a long cold day in Leh, settled in my hard hard bed but with a spectacular view of the Himalayas so I decided to get this started and then it just seemed to write itself. The challenge in writing about India is to be honest about the challenges of being a traveler here while still trying to convey what an incredible country this is.

By the time I leave India I will have been traveling 10 months - even when I write these posts I find that the days & weeks spent in various countries & places is becoming a blur. I look back at the simple snapshots I have taken to help me remember some amazing adventures. If all goes well I will be able to get a visa from the Russian Embassy in Delhi & will take off for a week to Moscow on May 13 & then travel to St. Petersburg by train for another week. Yes - I still want to keep this crazy lifestyle going longer.

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Now into my second month of travel in India, over 1,300 miles so far, I was feeling fairly comfortable with the ins and outs of travel in northern India - even taking in stride, as an example, the overpacked, overnight 108 miles (174 km) local bus from Dharamsala to Kullu that would take almost 8 hours (gives a good example of how slow the mountain road trips are). I thought I would miss seeing the beautiful mountain scenery by traveling through the night - but actually bus trips mean just a constant barrage of towns along narrow roads with little scenery to see.  At least travel by night gives one a chance of getting somewhere without the constant surge of traffic & pedestrians that happens amid blaring horns during the crazy pre-midnight hours. Between 8 pm & midnight, depending on the size of the town, the traffic eases up as the shops & street vendors have packed up & everyone is heading home.

India surpasses all the Asian & African countries I have visited so far in the intensity of homes & businesses & vehicles & people & cows & dogs competing for limited space along existing, incredibly narrow & poorly maintained roads. Without sidewalks, pedestrians & animals have to weave among the cars & rickshaws & motorbikes & food stalls with their vats of boiling oil for samosas & pots of boiling milk tea. There is little to no difference between the roads within towns & those that pass between towns - it's a maze of pot holes & irregular surfaces with piles of bricks, dirt & rock for construction heaped just about everywhere. The rule of the road is the game of chicken as drivers dare each other to see who will pull over or back up at the last minute to let the other pass. To say the Indians drive aggressively is an understatement. It's a given that there will be shouting on both sides for minor accidents that are basically just shrugged off as who wants to get insurance companies & police involved. Pedestrians understand they have zero priority but they play the game of chicken too & ignore the vehicles which causes drivers to lean fiercely on their horns. And so it goes. I seldom enjoy going for walks here because it is such a struggle dealing with the traffic, the constant blaring horns, & the uneven roadways with little place for escape.

Like most of the developing countries I have visited in Asia, one really has to wander far off the main transportation lines by private car or take an overland trek to a remote village to find something even close to what we might call charming; as in the sense of an old colonial village in Mexico, an indigenous village in Lesotho, or a medieval village in Spain. In all but the most rural & rustic hamlets, there seems to be little preservation of the look & feel of traditional neighborhoods. Newer buildings are crowded in wherever they can be fit. Everything takes on a shabby look as it seems there is little regard for maintaining - anything. Advertisements are painted onto buildings or posted on makeshift signs. Dirty windows, unfinished buildings, shabby restaurants & hotels, small shops selling the same chips & sodas line the streets; it's all a repetitive blur. Trash - yes, the bane of developing countries, is everywhere.

So how can you understand or appreciate India if you can't go past what you see on the streets? It is a challenge to everything we know & love about our (mostly) clean, well-organized, predictable western world. India is a challenge more than any other country, because there just so many people & the chaos is accepted. The volume of life here is so intense & so overwhelming. And so I am constantly intrigued by what I see when I am out. The craziness that I feel is just what is "normal". If the people around me are stressed or annoyed by the blaring horns, the traffic, the chaotic-seeming manner of "non-queueing", the yelping dogs, the on again off again electricity - they sure don't seem to show it.

I don't want to assume that I understand the culture but… the chaos of the outside world does not seem to be reflected in the individuals that I have met or observed. Whether Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, or Buddhist there is certain calmness, a peacefulness and genuine kindness that I can easily feel when I talk with individuals & small groups. People here struggle with the economy & lack of resources but they don't seem to struggle with life. It seems too simple to say but maybe there is a safety net that the extended family & their religion offers & that helps maintain some equilibrium & perspective. There is so much apparent energy - people seem to work hard & are productive - the shops & markets are always so full of "made in India" goods - abundant fruits, vegetables, eggs, & milk products (the best fresh yogurt!), finely crafted cotton & woolen garments, beautiful hand crafts - rugs, weavings, embroidery, wood & metal work, to name a few. And of course super creative & prolific literary, music & film artists. But so many people also seem to take time for their spiritual life as well - even if just to stop by a temple for a quick prayer or touch their hand to the threshold & then their forehead in a sign of respect.

The Indians love of country & heritage is also very apparent. Outside of major cities like Delhi, I rarely come across western (American) fast food joints (thank god). Each state has a clear identity that is apparent through unique, brilliantly colorful traditional dress, language, & delicious food. Indians enjoy being tourists & traveling to regions often at great distance from their own state; they bring their kids & extended family & often take up several rooms in the hotels. During most of my trip I have spent more time with locals in hotels & have found they treat the hotel like their homes. They leave their doors open so family members can move in & out to visit & share meals. Life happens in the hallways too - it's not uncommon to find someone walking around the hallway brushing their teeth in their jammies. And, they are always kind & friendly to me - much more so than even foreign travelers who are often in their own bubble of isolation. I can't even count the times I have been given a business card by an Indian father traveling with his family with a heartfelt invitation to come for a visit should I travel someone's home state.

It is very easy to meet local Indians here & I have visited with numerous families in their homes. When someone invites me to come to their home - they are being genuine & sincere - there is no hidden agenda. The visit will include tea & I'll bring cookies & sometimes I can pull out a balloon from my bag for the little kids. With an array of parents, in-laws, adult & young children, cousins & neighbors there is always someone who can speak even a little English or be fairly fluent. Even if we can't speak more than a few simple sentences, friendship & hospitality are clearly communicated.

Eleven weeks in India, covering an additional 4,000 miles, has passed at a very slow pace. I have had the chance to see & experience so many different regions, some like Kashmir & Ladakh that I knew I wanted to visit; others like Varanasi & Dharamsala that I never imagined I would; & still others like Khajuraho, Orchaa, the Kullu Valley, & Amritsar that I had never heard of.  Looking beyond the craziness & disorder can be a challenge but once I do the magic of India is right there to enjoy. The heritage of India, led by the Moghuls, shahs, & religious leaders, found incredible ways to blend man-made elements with the natural beauty of India. Palaces, forts, temples, stupas, & monasteries were built in harmony with spectacular settings. The princes of Varanasi built noble palaces, gates, & walkways along the sacred Ganges River to pay homage to the gods, yet allow access to the river for all worshippers. Khajuraho is home to the intricately carved Jain temples & tombs silhouetted among beautiful gardens.  Leh's Buddhist monasteries are built on rocky crags rising over the barren plains with stunning views of the Himalayas; but the Hemis monastery, the largest in Ladakh, was built in hidden niche of the Himalayas at 12,000 feet.

Northern India is rich in waterways & fertile soil. Being here in the spring I've been able to watch the slow transformation of the farmland as farmers prepare & plant the fields & tend the orchards. In the mountain region of Kashmir I enjoyed the full bloom of the tulip gardens & watching the fruit & nut trees bud & then blossom. Over 3 short days camping in Naranag, Kashmir I was able to watch the signs of spring taking back the land from ice & snow. Our camp sat along a fast moving river - runoff from the melting Himalayan snow - that had begun to chip huge chunks of ice from the frozen remains of the winter's avalanche that not so long ago had stopped the river's flow & backed up the river high onto the rocky banks. I am sorry though that I'll miss the blooming of Kashmir's saffron fields in October - when vast stretches of land turn purple & fragrant. I'll also miss the hatching of the baby hawks whose nest I watched their parents build in a tree just outside my window in Srinagar.

Though I travelled generally in the north & covered a lot of ground - I have always felt safe. It's as if the Indian people placed me in a protected bubble.  I always have had the sense that people have kept an eye out for me, not because they feared I could be hurt or threatened but rather because they saw I was alone & felt I needed the comfort of their family.

Though I have many stories to tell about my experiences over the past 4-5 weeks, here are just some highlights.

Kullu & Manali, Himachal Pradesh

Two smallish towns in the Kullu Valley at the base of the Himalayas. Manali even has a small ski resort & offers tandem paragliding. I spent over a week in Manali visiting the nearby hamlets & taking walks up to a very old wooden Hindu temple above the town. In Old Manali I met a friendly fellow who invited me for tea - we sat on the rooftop terrace of his hotel with the best view of the valley possible. He is a musician & had many stories to tell about performing locally & in Europe. He even hosted an even with Anoushka Shankar (daughter of the famous sitar artist Ravi Shankar) in Manali. Well - I like to believe most of what he said was true!

Amritsar, Punjab

An important center of Sikh culture & home of the Golden Temple. I have read that the Golden Temple receives an average of 100,000 people a day, more visitors per year than the Taj Mahal. Fortunately I arrived in the early evening to be there for the sunset so it was not too crowded. I only had to wait in line about 30-40 minutes to get into the very small temple where the sacred books are held. Sikh priests play traditional instruments & sing the verses night & day (broadcast all day on national TV). The pilgrims who come to the temple from great distances are clearly in awe & spend the day in prayer in the open areas that surround the temple. This temple is reported to have the largest kitchen in the world; serving a complimentary meal to all visitors who come to the dining area. I took a day tour of the city that brought me to the India-Pakistan border for the grand ceremony where the border guards retire the national flags for the day. A real spectacle & show of national pride on both sides of the border. High stepping, decked out soldiers - prance & preen at each other in a showy display of might as they open & close the ceremonial gates to retire the flags. The grounds are set up with a stadium that seats several thousand people (more on the India side) to watch the nightly event. 

Kashmir, Jammu-Kashmir

This large sprawling city sits along the banks of several rivers & a couple of beautiful lakes & is rimmed by the Himalayas - a very scenic location. It's population is over a million & overwhelmingly Muslim. The Kashmiri have a very different look about them - they say it is more of a Persian rather than a Hindu appearance. The city does not have modern buildings, rather, most building are no more than 5-6 stories & quite worn down. It is the summer capital of the state of Jammu-Kashmir & the site of numerous Mohgul palaces & gardens. My home was the cozy & comfy Kashmir Inn for almost 3 weeks. The owners, brothers Fayez, Riyaz, & Niyaz, & staff, Khursheed, Riyaz, & Adil, became my buddies who looked out for me.

Gulmarg & Pahalgam

Day trips outside Srinagar included visits to the hill towns (mountain hamlets is a more descriptive term) of Gulmarg & Pahalgam that pass through farms & orchards to reach impressive mountain gorges & high peaks streaked with numerous waterfalls & whitewater rivers. In Gulmarg it was entertaining to see the Indian tourists from the south playing in the snow for the first time. Many of the local tourists were decked out like snow bunnies after renting full snow gear from the stations along the road who catered to mountain novices from the tropics.

Naranag Mountain Trek

Riyaz (staff) is a guide during the summer months & I was his first client for the trekking season this year - he was my guide for a 3-night trip to Naranag in the mountains. The first night I slept in his rustic home (tiny open hearth for cooking, no heating, no running water except a faucet for the squat toilet) in the "gypsy" village (his term) where his family lives. The mountain areas have so many rivers with extremely fast moving white water coming from the incredibly steep peaks above - I remember thinking as we came into the area that there must be quite a few injuries & deaths since the villagers rely on the rivers for fish, water, & driftwood. As we came into his village we found out that just that day a 2-year child had fallen into a stream near his home & drowned. The child's family lives right next to Riyaz's family & so from my guest room window I was able to watch as the child, wrapped in a shroud, was brought back to the house from the hospital (which is almost an hour away). Over the next hour people from all over the village - some from higher up on the slopes - came pouring into the family compound to pay their respects & attend the funeral. The child was taken into the home, bathed & wrapped again, while a grave was dug just outside. The child was buried within an hour. Throughout the day, evening, & into the night, the village imam, local leaders, family, & friends kept vigil with the boy's parents. The whole village mourned.  The next day we "trekked" only a short distance along an easy path to our 2-night campsite; pack horses carried all the provisions.  Riyaz was cook, guide, friend, & tent mate (it was a huge tent) who treated me like a queen - making sure I was always warm & well fed. It rained intermittently & so I kept to short walks on the trails along the river with Riyaz's son & his friends for company.

Sufism in Srinagar

One of the brothers, Niyaz, kept me entertained. He invited me to accompany him to meet his friends & attend Sufi gatherings. There is an easy hospitality in India that makes befriending strangers so natural. Sufi-ism is strong in Kashmir, it is a variation within the Muslim faith characterized by strong sense of self-knowledge & personal peace gained through meditation & spiritual poetry & music. Unlike the dervish of Turkey, the Kashmir Sufi don't seem to incorporate dance in their prayer. I was invited to a couple of Sufi events where spiritual songs are performed - and I was the only woman attending (only possible because as a foreigner I don't break cultural taboos that separate Muslim men & women). The first was a smallish event of about 30 men and the principle performers were talented but considered non-professional. This event was during the day & we stayed just a couple of hours. The second event of about 40 men was hosted in honor of a local "baba" (spiritual guide) who is highly respected by his group of followers, of which Niyaz & his friends belong. We met first at the baba's very simple, hermitic home with a small group of followers & then we all went on to the home of the family hosting the event. This gathering was a demonstration of devotion to & respect of the baba. A full wazwan (traditional Kashmiri dinner) was served. The Muslims in Kashmir eat meat unlike most of India's Hindi - and the Kashmiri Muslims love meat!! We sat along the wall on the floor covered in carpets, I was given a seat of honor next to the baba (I took it as it had extra cushions!!). Long stretches of fabric were spread in front of us to serve as a table cloth. First a helper comes along with a basin & pitcher to pour water over each person's hands to wash and then the procession of food began. A large plate of rice is placed on the cloth for groups of 4 to share; then at a slow & comfortable pace servers come with large metal urn-like containers filled with meat stews of various types; mostly mutton & some chicken. The stew is placed in the center of the rice, which is replenished generously as needed, so that we can all scoop up a bit with our fingers (right hand only of course). One dish after another comes - maybe 6 dishes in all. The helper comes back at the end of the meal with the water for washing hands & to pick up the table cloth. Finally, we have sweet milk tea & everyone settles back to relax a bit before the music begins. For this event a group of professional performers was hired to play for the baba. The music started at about 11 pm and did not end until 5:30 am. The music & singing was constant - no breaks between songs & only 3 short breaks for tea the entire night. For these Sufi - it is interesting to note that hashish plays an important role in these events. The bowl of the shisha (the hookah water pipe) is filled with loose tobacco & a bit of hash & passed around. An alternative, especially for large groups, is tobacco/hash cigarettes. The hash is just an aid in the spiritual experience. During one of the breaks I was invited to go upstairs to the family's living quarters to meet the women. It was a party of greetings & selfies until the younger women stole me away to meet with them separately in their own room. The host came to collect me though to return to the music. The whole event was beautiful! By 4 am I was nodding off so someone brought me an extra pillow for my head & I vaguely remember someone putting a blanket over me as I nodded off almost immediately.

Ladakh, Jammu-Kashmir

Sometimes you just have to go south to go north! Though I had hoped to drive or fly directly east from Srinagar to Leh (less than 45 min by air) it was just not possible. This year the winter snow was particularly heavy & the road between the two cities was not yet open. And - for some reason, there were just not any flights available so I had to fly south back to Delhi, spend the night, then take a flight early the next morning north to Leh, Ladakh. I had come to India to see Leh  and had been traveling slowly the last couple months so I could reach Leh when in spring - so I just had to make it!

LehThe flight coming into Leh, which sits at 11,500 feet, passes along the Himalayas & is gorgeous. Rather than the forests & rivers of Kashmir, Ladakh is a moonscape more reminiscent of Tibet - a high desert without much sign of life - but beautiful in its own way. Ladakh is a predominately Buddhist district with only 30% Muslim. There is a strong Tibetan refugee element but still the majority of the population has an Asian appearance that is so unlike the Hindu population. Like Tibet, stupas, monasteries, prayer wheels, & prayer flags seem to be everywhere. The architecture is Tibetan with typical traditional Buddhist painting & wood work inside & outside monasteries, homes, & businesses. Unlike the typical Indian city - Leh appears to managed by city planners! There is a pleasant central market area that is closed to traffic. At one end is a lovely mosque & the whole market area is situated under a scenic view of two monasteries perched high above. Work is under way to improve the roads & flow of traffic & there are a lot of cars here! Signs to keep Leh clean & beautiful are everywhere as are garbage cans (very rare in other cities)! The city streets & neighborhoods are really very clean. Leh is small & cozy - no high rises but lots of guest houses & hotels. Their success with city planning is likely due to the strong economy derived from eco-tourism & trekking. The roads in/out of Leh are completely closed off for 3-4 months each year. Only 2 roads, one from Srinagar & one from Manali, service Leh. All other transportation is by air until snow plows clear these 2 roads. I was here for a week in late April during the shoulder season & I saw very few foreigners as the trekking season would not start until the roads & trails open towards the middle of May. I was the only guest at the Dorje Guesthouse &  was well pampered; 3 meals a day, frequent servings of tea, & lots of attention. The first few days were lovely - clear blue sky & great starry nights. The weather changed as mountain weather does but even when the clouds came I had great views from my room with floor to ceiling windows on two walls. I had plenty of opportunity to get out & see the sights - mostly monasteries - but I never seem to tire of the artwork that is so important in Buddhist temples & of course the views of the mountains that change each moment with the available sunlight.

Nubra Valley 
A highlight of the visit to Ladakh was a visit to the Nubra Valley just about 80 miles east of Leh. To get there means crossing the Khardung La pass which is one of highest motorable roads in the world. Though the signpost at the summit boasts the altitude is over 18,380 feet, most references report the altitude is just a mere
17,582 feet. My driver for the 2-day trip to Nubra was Stanzin, a sincere young man who, in spite of driving a little fast, actually drove much slower & more safely than many of the vehicles who passed us. He had a funny habit of talking out loud to himself and I only hoped his choice to play Buddhist chanting while we crossed the high winding roads was a good omen. The road is narrow & with the heavy snow traffic much limited to one-way traffic. The traffi is controlled well before the pass in each direction; vehicles must pass the checkpoint before 11am heading toward Nubra and returning vehicles can only begin the journey after 2pm - this minimizes the flow of 2-way traffic. The day was bright & sunny & the snow pristine as we drove eastward across the pass. Stanzin put chains on & took them off at the right points; unlike some drivers who risked the roads without chains. Thank goodness for the chains because even with them we hit a few icy patches & slide around a bit - I had great views of the very steep drop-offs over the low berms that created the only barrier along the road (ok - I admit it, I closed my eyes a lot!). With all the stops & starts, those 80 miles took us over 5 hours! Our planned stops along the way included the requisite photo opp at the summit & we stopped for lunch along the way at an outpost town for momos (Tibetan style veggie dumplings) & nice hot, sweet milk tea. There was still time after arriving in Nubra to go out to visit the dunes that cover a good portion of the valley floor & see the changing mountain light as the sun setting behind the immense mountains & gorges that have created the valley. The mountains show off very active & diverse geological changes - some layered ridges pushing up at dramatic angles, other steep mountains letting fine sand slide down from incredibly steep heights, & winding & flowing along - a shallow but clear & blue narrow river. To please us travelers, wooly Bactrian (2-humped) & long skirted yaks graze along the banks of the river. All very impressive & beautiful. The next morning we left in time for me to explore the 14th century Buddhist monastery that sits in an auspicious location partway up a mountain ridge with an impressive view of the valley.  As usual, I

17,582 feet. My driver for the 2-day trip to Nubra was Stanzin, a sincere young man who, in spite of driving a little fast, actually drove much slower & more safely than many of the vehicles who passed us. He had a funny habit of talking out loud to himself and I only hoped his choice to play Buddhist chanting while we crossed the high winding roads was a good omen. The road is narrow & with the heavy snow traffic much limited to one-way traffic. The traffi is controlled well before the pass in each direction; vehicles must pass the checkpoint before 11am heading toward Nubra and returning vehicles can only begin the journey after 2pm - this minimizes the flow of 2-way traffic. The day was bright & sunny & the snow pristine as we drove eastward across the pass. Stanzin put chains on & took them off at the right points; unlike some drivers who risked the roads without chains. Thank goodness for the chains because even with them we hit a few icy patches & slide around a bit - I had great views of the very steep drop-offs over the low berms that created the only barrier along the road (ok - I admit it, I closed my eyes a lot!). With all the stops & starts, those 80 miles took us over 5 hours! Our planned stops along the way included the requisite photo opp at the summit & we stopped for lunch along the way at an outpost town for momos (Tibetan style veggie dumplings) & nice hot, sweet milk tea. There was still time after arriving in Nubra to go out to visit the dunes that cover a good portion of the valley floor & see the changing mountain light as the sun setting behind the immense mountains & gorges that have created the valley. The mountains show off very active & diverse geological changes - some layered ridges pushing up at dramatic angles, other steep mountains letting fine sand slide down from incredibly steep heights, & winding & flowing along - a shallow but clear & blue narrow river. To please us travelers, wooly Bactrian (2-humped) & long skirted yaks graze along the banks of the river. All very impressive & beautiful. The next morning we left in time for me to explore the 14th century Buddhist monastery that sits in an auspicious location partway up a mountain ridge with an impressive view of the valley.  As usual, I followed my nose to the rustic kitchen area to watch phe monks making momos & enjoying the tea they offered me. We were at the checkpoint at exactly 2pm to begin the return trip in plenty of time to beat the sunset. What a change a day in the mountains can bring! As soon as we passed the checkpoint big gray clouds began to gather & we found ourselves behind a long train of vehicles constantly having to stop & wait while a caravan of 10-15 army trucks slowly plodded along the road between frequent stops to dig out of deep trenches. I only hoped we would be back on the paved road before dark.  It seemed iffy to me - I was not looking forward to spending the night in the car - but maybe with a little help from the Buddhist chants we made across the summit & Stanzin was able to take the chains off once we reached the paved road & the trucks were moving freely again.  We were back at my lovely little Dorje Guesthouse by 8:30pm - more than 9 hours of travel!

Dehli

Leaving Leh was a little iffy too! Though the vast majority of my days in the mountains had plenty of clear sky & weather, my departure day started with rain & wind & I sure hoped the storm would pass before my 10:30am flight to Delhi. But - the mountains just seemed to comply & the weather began to clear & after only a slight delay the plane took off & I made it safely to New Delhi & the 100+ degree temps.  Fortunately a buddy I made in Srinagar (the one who introduced me to Sufism) was coming into Delhi & we arranged to meet with a friend of his who owns a lovely cottage about 30 miles outside of Delhi. We passed a couple great days there enjoying the pool & a variety of interesting locals & foreign travelers coming to enjoy the pool under starlight.

My last few days in Delhi are simple & easy but I'm limiting time out in the heat - thank goodness I have already spent plenty of time sightseeing here in the past!  I submitted an application for a visa to Russia & will pick up my passport & visa on Friday so I can fly to Moscow on Saturday May 13. I have a few days in a comfy hotel with AC & wifi so I can try to do some planning for a trip to Colombia & Ecuador in September-October.

My visit to India has been wonderful - long & fulfilling. Taking the slow road has given me so many opportunities to experience life in such a wide variety of Indian cultures & to have met & befriended some very kind & interesting people. I'm not sure when or if I'll be back to India & Asia - there is so much more to explore - but for now I am satisfied with my travels here and am looking forward to returning to the western world of Russia & Europe & eventually on to the Americas.