India - Rajasthan

March 2008

Road trip through Rajasthan with fearless driver, Mr. Harish, and Mary-Anna!



April 8, 2008

We spent about 10 days traveling through the state of Rajisthan after leaving the Taj Mahal in Agra .  We learned of Rajisthan from my dear buddies at work >> Thanks Ranjan and Mallik!



Mary-Anna and I hired a car and driver to cover well over 700 miles in a giant loop through the region!!  First up was a fabulous "ghost city" Fhatepur Sikhri built by a maharajah and absolutely splendid - the finest architecture and creativity - my favorite spot.  Imagine a princess's bedroom - with mirrored tiles and semi-precious stones in the walls and tiny alcoves everywhere for candles to shimmer and reflect from the mirrors!!  Imagine a court where a maharajah sits on a high pedestal and plays a game of "chess" where the chess pieces are his lovely brides!



This was followed by a visit to a bird sanctuary - our guide was the cycle-rickshaw driver - and though not "officially trained" - knew more about the birds, animals, and habitat than any trained guide.  He had been a rickshaw driver for over 20 years!



Rajisthan is known as the "jewel" region because of its very colorful cities.  Jaipur is the pink city - where most of the old town is painted a "majestic" pink!  Jaiselmere is the gold city - built with the soft golden stones of the desert in which it is located.  It is here that we visited one of the only "lived in" historical forts (still a functioning "old city" within the walls of the fort).  I took an early am walk to the fort and had the chance to meet and spend time with the manager of the museum staff... he treated me to masala chai (Indian spice tea) and told me stories of life in the fort and yearly festivals.  By the end of the afternoon I knew shopkeepers and street kids, had the chance to visit the home and family of a local to see their view of the fort and city below, and felt a little part of the atmosphere. Mary-Anna and I then went off to the desert for a sunset camel ride in the dunes, a typical desert dinner under the stars, entertainment with music & dance by the local kids and gypsies, and the night in a charming desert lodge (the walls of our little cottage were lined with mirrored "stars' to give us the sweet dreams of "princesses"!).  We were up at 5am to head out again on camel for the sunrise!!  This was a slice of India with no people and wide open vistas - very special. 



The last city was Jodhpur , the blue city.  The old city is painted blue - and looks like a fairyland when seen from the walls of Jodhpur 's opulent fort.  In addition to the typical sightseeing, my morning walks allowed me to meet the local residents of the neighborhood of our hotel.  The retired military horseman who runs a stable training polo and riding horses - he treated me to masala chai so I met the "tea man".  The next day I brought Mary-Anna to see/learn his technique to make masala chai - then he took us to his home to meet his wife and daughter.  We chatted for a long time and all parted with gifts and tears!  I also had time to wander in to the local private hospital!  Just asked to see the hospital (7 beds) and spent time with the married physician team who run this small place.... again more tea and more stories! 



India is just as intense as you can imagine but so much more friendly and open than you can possibly believe.  The colors are amazing - the cities, the fabrics, the foods, the country side!  We never stopped marveling at how Hinduism is so integrated into every part of life here - temples and shrines everywhere... prayers (pujo) and incense in every corner.  Mary-Anna read that there is one cow for every two people. Holy Cow!!  But not to forget the little mice... we visited a temple Karni Mata where holy mice are kept. If they run over your toes you are blessed.  Well not only did a mouse run over my toes - but he gave me a little peck.  The mice are offered sweets from the worshipers - so guess he figured my fat white little toe was a very special doughy treat (not to worry - only a love nip - no harm done!)



I have gone crazy with photos - over 4 gig here alone!



I could go and on with stories of what we have seen and experienced!

 


























































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